Hot Cross Buns

The season of Lent has its curiosities, one of which is the appearance of Hot Cross Buns, a delight not seen at any other time of year. I purchased a package at a supermarket last week, and when checking out, the young Checker said, “My, these things are just flying off the shelves! And we only have them around Saint Patrick’s Day to Easter. What gives?" I mentioned that we only see them during Lent, to which she responded, “What’s that?" So, I gave her a quick catechism lesson about both Lent and the meaning of the buns, during which her eyes glazed over, so I think my teaching was inefficacious.

Hot Cross Buns (I don’t know why they’re called “hot” since they’re usually served at room temperature) originated at a 12th-century monastery in St. Albans, England. For centuries they were reserved for Good Friday, something of a treat for those whose fast and abstinence were strictly maintained. The fruits inside would allow those fasting a boost of energy in a mostly food-less day. Now, however, one can enjoy them throughout the Lenten season, as a treat, especially for those who have given up sweets for Lent. The raisins and candied fruits found inside, along with the icing in the form of a cross would be a good way to sneak a treat under the watchful eye of one’s Guardian Angel amidst an otherwise profound abstemiousness.

When I lived up in the Northeast Kingdom, I befriended the Methodist Minister there, who was enjoying a Hot Cross Bun with me one day in Lent. As I explained to him the significance of the cross and the near-naughtiness of enjoying such a treat in this penitential season, he laughed and said, “You Catholics! You make up all sorts of rules, and just as soon as you do, you figure out all sorts of creative ways of getting around them!”

My Grandmother made her own version, making not individual buns, but filling a cake pan, baking a wonderful bread, which she called “kuchen,” oddly, the German word for cake, not bread. She added the requisite candied fruit (sparingly, though, being Irish she could only stretch the rules so far) and on top, simply sprinkling this wonderful bread with sugar and cinnamon. Over the years, I’ve seen variations on the recipe, sometimes adding chocolate chips (a desecration) and even toffee, (which really stretches Lenten officiousness). These are, of course, silly novelties which should be avoided for Hot Cross purists.

So, as we continue our observance of Lent, allowing only the simplest of pleasures, Hot Cross Buns can certainly fly beneath the radar of Lenten restrictions. Shop around, and let me know where you’ve found the best buns in the county.